Style

Does Bikini Kill's clothing line betray riot grrrl's original principles?

by Mish Way

Did you know you can now buy Bikini Kill cherry-flavored lip balm? It’s part of the collection of 1990s feminist-revival clothing created and produced by the movement’s figureheads, Bikini Kill’s Kathleen Hanna and Kathi Wilcox. It’s punk rock feminism confined to a few choice products.

Riot Grrrl originated in Olympia, WA in the early ‘90s. It was a social movement from third-wave feminists who were educated and pissed off about the treatment of women not only in the hardcore punk scene, but society at large. They took action with group attack. They weren’t afraid to be strident and militant in their feminist beliefs and artistic creations, like when Bikini Kill performed. It was a timely movement that inspired many women (and men for that matter) to think more consciously about feminism. It celebrated DIY, including crafting, creating space, and living cheap in the North West, partly by thrifting and remaking clothing, declaring independence from mainstream culture. Buy local. Thrift. Fuck Walmart. You know what I mean.

That’s why it’s kind of shocking that Hanna and Wilcox’s VFiles collection sells Bikini Kill lip balm for $10 a stick. Posters run for around $75, while a recreation of Hanna’s signature cotton t-shirt dress (which states “KILL ME” on the front) goes for the same price. Exclusivity usually means the items will be expensive. This is not a new concept, but it feels weird.

Hanna sees the massive ‘90s revival as a positive thing for her brand of feminism. In a recent interview with Teen Vogue, she said, “I don’t like the actual nostalgia part of it, but I do think nostalgia can lead to something interesting. Hopefully younger girls and women are getting interested in Bikini Kill because we’re very associated with the ’90s and are like, ‘This speaks to me. I want to learn more about feminism, I want to read feminist books.’ That’s what the revival could bring.” And it has. The infamous Rookie creator and teen herself Tavi Gevinson took hold of this revival movement when creating her popular online magazine. She kind of hit the nail on the head. Hanna applauded. Apparently, they are now friends.

So, is it problematic when the movement gets commodifed into something as trivial as a $10 lip balm? Or is this just the way the world works and we need to get our heads out of our granola asses and pay up for the cherry? Is this VFiles collection a nice way to remember a movement that changed the lives of many feminists and musicians all across the board, or is it a ridiculous trivialization of something that should be held more sacred? Gimme $75 and I will call Hanna and ask her.